Is kohl safe for your eyes? A guide to using kohl and eye makeup safely

Kohl can be harmful, but the problem is not the tradition of wearing it; the risk comes from what some products contain and from how they are used. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) says traditional kohl products often contain high levels of lead, and that lead, usually in the form of lead sulfide, sometimes makes up more than half of a product's weight. In Saudi Arabia, the Saudi Food and Drug Authority (SFDA) warned in 2017 about two ithmid kohl products on the local market whose lead exceeded the permitted limit, and a third whose microbe count exceeded its limit. On the usage side, the American Academy of Ophthalmology (AAO) advises throwing eye makeup away 3 months after buying it, never sharing it, applying it outside the lash line, and removing it completely before sleep.

The harms of unsafe kohl: why health authorities warn about some products

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration says kohl, under its many names including kajal and surma, often contains high levels of lead, and that these materials are not approved by the agency as color additives in cosmetics. The agency lists anemia, kidney problems, and neurological damage that may include seizures, coma, and death among the effects of high lead exposure, and notes that chronic exposure even at relatively low levels may lead to learning and behavior problems. The World Health Organization states that there is no level of lead exposure known to be without harmful effects, and lists some traditional cosmetics among its sources.

This is not a distant problem. In a statement issued in June 2017, the Saudi Food and Drug Authority said it had collected and analysed samples of eye kohl products sold locally and found two whose lead exceeded the impurity limit in the Gulf standard GSO 1943, and a third whose microbe count exceeded the limit in the kohl standard GSO 1846/2011. The authority advised consumers not to use those products and to dispose of them, and stressed buying from reliable sources where a product's origin can be traced. The authority has issued other warnings about kohl products as well, including some that exceeded the permitted limits for lead, antimony and arsenic.

• The name on the container does not tell you what is inside; words like ithmid or natural do not necessarily mean a product is free of lead.
• Buy kohl from reliable sources whose products can be traced, and avoid unknown products or those without clear manufacturer details.
• If an official warning names a product you own, stop using it at once and dispose of it.

Kohl for babies and children: the most vulnerable group

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration notes that in some cultures it is common for parents to apply kohl to the eyes of infants and children, which makes the warning matter even more for them. According to the World Health Organization, a young child may absorb up to 4 to 5 times as much lead as an adult from the same swallowed dose, and frequent hand-to-mouth behaviour increases exposure. The organization says lead can permanently affect a child's brain development, and that blood levels as low as 3.5 micrograms per decilitre may be associated with lower intelligence and with behavioural and learning difficulties.

• The safest choice is not to apply kohl to the eyes of infants and young children.
• If a child has used a questionable product, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration advises asking a healthcare provider to test them for lead.
• The agency advises the same test for pregnant and nursing women, and the World Health Organization notes that lead stored in bone can return to the blood during pregnancy and reach the fetus.

Everyday rules for using kohl and eye makeup safely

Even a well-made product can cause infection or injury if it is used carelessly. The American Academy of Ophthalmology says infection-causing bacteria grow easily in creamy or liquid eye makeup, and sums up its advice in simple rules that apply to kohl, mascara, eyeshadow and eyeliner alike:

• Throw eye makeup away 3 months after buying it, and immediately if you develop an eye infection while using it.
• Never share eye makeup, even with family or close friends, and avoid in-store testers or use only fresh applicators with them.
• Apply makeup outside the lash line, away from the eye, so it does not block the eyelid's oil glands that protect the eye's surface. The Academy does not mention kohl by name, but lining the inner rim of the eyelid with it, as is common, does not fit this rule; if that is your habit, take extra care that the product is reliable and the applicator is clean and used only by you.
• Clean your face and eyelids well before you start, and never apply makeup in a moving vehicle, so you do not poke your eye with the applicator.
• Try one new product at a time, and if a reaction appears, find out its ingredients and tell your doctor.
• Be careful with metallic, glitter and sparkle powders: their flakes can fall into the eye and irritate it, and glitter eye makeup in particular is a common cause of corneal irritation or infection, especially for contact lens wearers.
• If mascara clumps your lashes together, do not separate them with anything sharp, because you can easily scratch your eye.

Safe makeup removal, lash extensions and heated lash curlers

The Academy advises removing all eye makeup every night before sleep, especially mascara that sticks to the lashes, and describes a 50-year-old woman who slept in mascara for more than 25 years and developed uncomfortable black lumps under her eyelids that led to follicular conjunctivitis. For removal, the Academy says petroleum jelly is an effective remover and that tear-free baby shampoo is an ophthalmologist-recommended option for washing the lids, together with running a clean cotton swab along the base of the lashes, keeping remover out of the eye and rinsing it off thoroughly, and avoiding exfoliating scrubs around the eyes.

As for semi-permanent eyelash extensions, the Academy says they can be safe as long as precautions are taken. They are usually applied with tweezers and a semi-permanent glue in a session that can last up to two hours, and they typically last 3 to 4 weeks. Their risks include trauma to or infection of the eyelid or cornea, allergic reaction to the glue, some of which contained formaldehyde in the past, and temporary or permanent loss of eyelashes. Before a session, the Academy recommends the following:

• Check the salon's reputation and hygiene, and the training and experience of the technician.
• Ask for the glue's ingredient list, check it for allergens, and confirm it has not expired.
• Request a spot test of the glue on the inside of your wrist before it goes near your eyes.
• If you have a reaction, do not remove the lashes or treat it yourself; see an ophthalmologist right away.

The Academy also warns about heated eyelash curlers: human skin can suffer first-degree burns at about 48°C (118°F) and second-degree burns at about 55°C (131°F), and eyelid skin is thinner than most, so it is damaged more easily and at lower temperatures, while these devices range from about 38°C to over 93°C (100°F to over 200°F). If the device touches the eye itself it can cause a burn, and a burn in the centre of the cornea can leave a scar that causes permanent vision loss. So start at the lowest temperature, do not go over the same area repeatedly, and skip the device if your eyes are sensitive. As for lash growth serums, the Academy noted in 2024 that a single prescription product was the only one approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, and that the safety and effectiveness of others had not been officially proven, so consult an ophthalmologist before using one.

When should you stop wearing makeup and see an eye doctor?

If you develop an eye infection such as pink eye, the Academy advises throwing away all the eye makeup you were using right away, and not wearing eye makeup until the infection is gone. After any eye surgery, do not wear makeup around the eye until your ophthalmologist says it is safe. Any one of the following signs is enough reason to see a doctor:

• Pain, redness, itching or swelling after a new product or after lash extensions, since an allergic reaction can temporarily interfere with vision.
• A scratchy feeling after makeup particles get into the eye, especially with contact lenses; a corneal scratch can occasionally become infected and turn into a potentially blinding corneal ulcer.
• Discharge or persistent redness that suggests an infection, or any change in your vision.

The bottom line is that kohl and eye makeup can stay part of the daily routine with much lower risk if you choose a product from a reliable, traceable source, use it cleanly in a way that respects the eye's boundaries, and keep it away from infants and young children. If you have an old product or one of unknown origin, throwing it away costs far less than treating an infection or lead exposure.